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A shop for my old Delta's ( Or my portable Delta-Shop)

At the same time I am restoring my old Delta machines, I am also creating a workshop for them.

But I live in the county with the city at two sides of my property. The city will not allow me to put up a shop without annexing to the city. Doing so would increase my property taxes to roughly four times what they are now. So I have taken the battle to the next level. I am building my workshop in a converted 24 foot camping trailer. The county zoning restrictions are vague on this, but will allow it as it is not considered a permanent structure. What this means is as long as it has axles under it, and it can be moved the city has no say in it. I also cannot hard wire an electrical connection to it. I say not a problem as campers can simply be powered through a plug in 30 Amp circuit. So that solves two problems. One I get my workshop, Two I get power to my workshop.

But this limits me to a workshop that has inside dimensions of 7 1/2' x 20 1/2' of floor space. Both ends of my workshop tilt back towards the inside of the floor space limiting the vertical ends further. Cramped but I believe workable. It's going to have to be because it's what I have to work with.

I will be replacing the old crank out windows with some vinyl sliding windows that I have,and vinyl siding the camper for appearance sake. Putting in bigger doors to allow using my table saw and jointer, and various other modifications along the way.

At the present time the camper is now a gutted empty shell. I will be adding a second layer of 3/4" plywood to the floor and putting in new walls electrical etc.

So feel free to offer suggestions, just follow along, or laugh at me while I take the fight to the next level in the creation of my portable Delta-Shop.

I'll be supplying photos in upcoming episodes of this adventure. (it's dark out now so photos will have to wait)

I wasn't going to do a write-up on this but Jack (Tool613) convinced me some members here might be interested

So until later,

Larry

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Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Larry Jenkins on October 25, 2011 at 6:24pm

Lare..

What about a used "slide out" Motor Home?

Larry

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JourneymanPermalink Reply by tool613 on October 25, 2011 at 6:59pm

I think larry(the other larry) has good idea.

Does the city let you add a wooden deck to the side of the trailer? you could have an out door shop in the warm mounths with your tools on wheels. a nice awning over head would keep you out of the sun. cheep sliding patio doors facing south would be great access to the outdoor workshop.

jack

English machines

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Forum HostPermalink Reply by Larry Buskirk on October 25, 2011 at 9:08pm

I'll try to answer both questions,

Larry J.

I allready have the camper I will be using, It was a swap for a computer that I wasn't using so the price was right.

Jack

The wall height is shorter than standard door framing, and adding decks would then classify the structure as permanent.

So what I plan on doing is to remove the two front windows along the sides which are directly accross from each other, and replace them with drop down doors which would create a sort of deck on each side when they are lowered.( like the ramp doors on cargo trailers) This would give me the needed access for using my table saw, and jointer etc. Another option is to split these doors horizontily so the top swings up, and the bottom swings down, this would give me both a small deck, and an overhead awning. Now you've got me thinking I like this idea , It would give me both in one!

As to the cold months I'll just open these door/awnings as needed .

Thanks for the input guys, I think this is beginning to look a little more promising allready!

Regards,

Larry

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JourneymanPermalink Reply by tool613 on October 26, 2011 at 4:52am

Larry if the deck is free standing and is not attached to the trailer I think you are OK.

the portability of a shop has always been a problem that is still with us today so history will contain some of the answers. here is a portabe vise from england 1896

jack

English machines

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Site AdminPermalink Reply by John Moody on October 26, 2011 at 6:32am

I agree with Jack. Just build the deck free standing, not attached to the camper and pull up next to it. That would offer some extra room.

John Moody
John Moody Woodworks
http://www.johnmoodywoodworks.com

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Forum HostPermalink Reply by Larry Buskirk on October 26, 2011 at 7:42am

Jack,

The problem is I can't do any structure including decks without the citys approval, zoning restrictions require a building permit for anything that covers ground space. Unless it is a trailer or has axles, and can be moved. So this kind of leaves me between a rock, and a hard place. I had thought about putting the trailer right next to the back deck of the house, but the deck is higher than the trailers floor by about 10". I think my best option now is to do the split door/awning option, that way if I ever move it goes with the trailer. With both sides open it would give me a floor area about 13 1/2' wide, plenty for my needs. Also splitting the doors would make them easier to raise, and lower weight wise. I figure I can support the lower half with chains angled down to the top edge of the lower section, then use adjustable poles to hold up the top sections. I have four adjustable poles from a canvas awning that came with the trailer, so I'll use them two per side. The canvas is no longer usable as it has dry rotted over time.

Following are photos of the trailer from four sides, so everyone gets an idea of what I'm starting with.

The windows to the front are five feet wide.

The door is only 2 feet wide by 6 feet high.

The interior floor to ceiling height is 76 1/2". Width is 7 1/2' and front to back is 20 1/2'.

So that is what I am starting with. I know it's not much but it is what it is. I suppose it could be worse, but the price was right.

I have four vinyl sliding windows that will replace the remaining windows once I remove the front side windows to make the door/awning combinations. I also have enough vinyl siding to cover the exterior once I get the windows, and openings taken care of. I plan on using electric baseboard heaters that I already have along with a small window A/C unit for heating and cooling.

The camper is insulated with 1 1/2" thick foam insulation on the inside, I also will be adding 3/4" foam to the outside over the aluminum skin before vinyl siding it.

So there you have it the beginning of my portable Delta-Shop. We'll have to see how much hair I pull out getting this setup.

So until later,

Larry

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Forum HostPermalink Reply by Larry Buskirk on October 28, 2011 at 4:23pm

Hi everyone,

After doing some measurements inside, I can open the area where I'll replace the windows with deck/awnings up to a width of 6' 9 1/2" by removing the upright support just behind the windows. I also decided to split the deck/awning so the decks are 4' wide, and the awnings will be 2'. Doing so will save me 1 sheet of 3/4" plywood to do both sides. It will also give me a floor that will be 15 1/2' wide with both sides open.

I'll also be building a roll around island bench from a dining table top I salvaged from curbside, It's a thick butcher block style top, that I'll build some cabinets under for storage. I'll also use the bench for mounting some of my machines on, and run them from a line-shaft setup that I have. This should help with storage, and equipment arraingement. Being able to move it will give better access to the equipment as the scroll saw, and band saw will be mounted on one side. With the lathe, and drillpress on the other.

So I'm beginning to think that this will work out better than I originally thought possible.

I was going to take some pictures but I need to get more batterys for the camera.

So until later,

Larry

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JourneymanPermalink Reply by tool613 on October 28, 2011 at 8:02pm

That sounds like you may have a good lay out started. andI look forward to the pics Larry. Way to go.

jack

English machines

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Forum HostPermalink Reply by Larry Buskirk on October 30, 2011 at 5:53am

Hi everyone,

After re-reading the suggestion by Larry Jenkins, I realized that it would be a simple matter to make bump-outs for creating added space that would fit the situation. So my plan has changed again. Larry your slide-out suggestion kept nagging at me, and I realized that I can accomplish the task by simply making up a panelized form of construction. I'll end up making four panels for the walls that will break down, for towing purposes. Two of the panels will fill the opening for towing, and the rest will be put inside for moving. This way I could leave the bump-outs year round. It would just be a matter of carriage bolting the panels together so they can be dismantled as needed. Same would go for roof, and floor panels.

Thanks for the suggestion Larry, I now believe this to be my best option to deal with adding some floor space to the shop.

So I'm back to the drawing board again, to figure dimensions, joining of the panels, etc.

Larry

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Permalink Reply by Larry Jenkins on October 30, 2011 at 11:19am

Glad to help. It just sounded like the thing to do.

Post images as you go for the Gang..
Larry

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JourneymanPermalink Reply by tool613 on November 2, 2011 at 4:28am

finger taping on the table.

jack

English machines

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Forum HostPermalink Reply by Larry Buskirk on November 2, 2011 at 11:02am

Jack,

I'm afraid you'll have to tap a little longer.

As I mentioned in your Shop Tour, you got me thinking again.

The trailer as it is needs some structural repairs to the wall framing, due to the roof having leaked in the past. On this particular trailer the walls, and roof are framed with 2 x 2's.

So after checking DOT regulations regarding trailers I have discovered the following.

Maximum allowed height is 13' 5". The trailer as is is 8' 0", so I can increase the height by 5' 5"

Maximum allowed width is 8' 6" . The trailer as is is 7' 9". so I can increase the width by 9"

So to make it easier on myself I have decided to completely redesign the whole mess, in other words basically rebuild from the floor up.

I like the roof design from your Train Station Shop, and will be using something similar for this. It will provide a 4 1/2" overhang for both sides. It will also provide overhead storage, freeing up floor space in the process. I'll keep the ceiling height at 6' 6", and increase the wall height to 7'. The storage space will come with the increase in roof height. So I'll have a small loft above.

I'll also be squaring off both ends of the trailer to help make the ends stronger. This will also allow me to put double doors accross the rear of the shop, providing working room for my table saw, jointer, etc.

I'll be posting drawings hopefully later today, I haven't done drafting for years. Being dyslexic slows me down, as I tend to reverse everything trying to put it on paper, so please bear with me. I can see it in my head, but transfering it to paper is difficult for me.

So until later,

Larry