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Master CarpenterPermalink Reply by Mike Dillen on February 14, 2012 at 9:04am

Thanks all for your ideas and tips!

Wayne I think I have Photoshop, I'll give that a try as soon as I can find my disc and load it back on the computer.

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ApprenticePermalink Reply by Jari Kilpi on February 18, 2012 at 7:38pm

Greetings All

When I got picture I wanna use on my pieces, I open the picture with windows paint program and it got 1 little very handy option, "Flip Horizontal", this makes picture as mirror image. Print it out, use blue masking tape to secure it to the piece. Dip cotton ball into acetone, "wet' lines and use flat scraper like old credit card to transfer lines from paper to wood. This way picture is not reversed on your piece..... 

Greg Aksdal said:

You're right Gene, if you have a copy from a regular copier you can iron it on at low temp. One thing to remember is that the image will be reversed on the wood. 

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Greg
http://www.thesawdustfactory.net/

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Keep on turning, if not today, do it tomorrow.

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ApprenticePermalink Reply by Spence Bloom on February 18, 2012 at 8:34pm

I use self adhesive shelf liner on the pre-sanded project wood, then I spray adhesive on the pattern back and apply the pattern to the liner... exactly as you described.  To me, it is simpler than multiple strips of masking tape or packing tape, and possibly costs less.(look for shelf liner at the dollar store). When I'm done with the spray adhesive I take the nozzle off, put it on a WD40 can and give a spritz to clear out the adhesive.

To me, carbon paper of any color is only useful for silhouette type outline patterns with few components... not intricate fretwork.

Compared to black ink, better visibility comes from using dark red ink on white paper (some people like blue, but make it a darker blue)... do that in the computer before printing. If the pattern wasn't originally in color, then black isn't easily converted to red, however, one of the dark grays sometimes works well for contrast with the nearly-black saw blade. There is no such thing as printing white on dark paper... although if you wanted, you could waste a ton of ink printing the negative of a pattern to get a similar result (only kidding... don't bother wasting the ink on that.). A good worklight helps see the pattern line as you are cutting... and many folks use a lighted magnifier to see even better.

If intricate parts of the pattern start lifting while cutting, use the eraser end of a pencil as if it were a finger to hold the pattern down as near to the blade as you need (in front, behind, or right next to the blade...)

 

Spence

 

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Master CarpenterPermalink Reply by SQ on February 18, 2012 at 8:48pm

I don't like black patterns either.  The black blends in with the color of the blades.  I have always thought they should make the blades red or even designer colors so they would show up against black patterns.  lol  

I use Krylon Easy-Tack which is a repositionable adhesive for all my patterns.  It comes right off when I want it to and sanding takes off any adhesive left behind.  I buy this at Michael's.  

SQ

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Happiness is wood chips flying!

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Master CarpenterPermalink Reply by Wayne Mahler on February 18, 2012 at 10:53pm

Spence

Good advice about the eraser. I use my fingers but am very careful. If it gets too close I use clear tape for reattachment of the pattern. Packing tape works great if you can put up with the glare of the light from it.

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Wayne Mahler
God bless and protect our troops that serve so we can be free.

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