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I guess this is why we need codes. In case you can't tell those are 1x  untreated pine. I don't think the missing blocks for vents are correct either.

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in our part of the country that is the way to vent a crawlspace to put a vent in place of a block.  i believe everyware you have wood in contact with concrete it is supposed to be treated.  im not sure about the 1x but i know that code requires at least a 2x4 even though it is best practive to use a 2x8.  i also have seen on modular housing where they use every bit of scrap they can find, even maybe a 2' piece in the middle of a long wall when they could have spanned it with one piece.

Ok, let's see how many things are WRONG with this picture:

 

  1. Sill NOT 2x material and pressure treated.
  2. Foundation wall not filled or rebarred.
  3. That blue foam material should be over the whole top of the brick (barrier between cement and sill plate for moisture and termite preventive.
  4. Sill not locked down with J Bolts.
  5. Sill should be placed up to outer edge so when sheathing is applied it overhangs face of wall.
  6. Wall cavities not filled.
  7. Where wall meets the other wall, no rebar was installed (evidenced by no fill to hold rebar) AND
  8. TOP PIC no mortar between new wall and existing wall !!!!
  9. No waterproofing or undercoating below grade.
  10. No foundation drainage.
  11. Inside Rat slab not set up.
  12. At this point I would be suspect that the footing was not set up right and it was put on just a bed of hand tamped stone (which will sink in less than 5 years.).
  13. I got a 20 dollar bill that says there's no permit on this job.
  14. Somebody PLEASE, PLEASE call the local inspector AND the State inspector!!!!  These guys are fly by nighters!!!!!!!  And the customer is being ripped off!!!
I didn't think you could leave a block out on the top course where the mudsil makes contact.

Paul Whitmarsh said:
in our part of the country that is the way to vent a crawlspace to put a vent in place of a block.  i believe everyware you have wood in contact with concrete it is supposed to be treated.  im not sure about the 1x but i know that code requires at least a 2x4 even though it is best practive to use a 2x8.  i also have seen on modular housing where they use every bit of scrap they can find, even maybe a 2' piece in the middle of a long wall when they could have spanned it with one piece.

I've seen vents on the top run, but other than that this is pretty sorry construction.  I don't think that would fly even in TN ;)

You never did tell us the who what when where and why!!!!

 

Where was this?

  That "strapping" to hold the sill ain't gonna hold a good "pass of wind".   They DO make an anchor DESIGNED for block work, that gets mortared in with the blocks.    Sill is way, way undersized.   Blocks Should be filled in with grout, more insulation that way.   That foam is supposed to cover the whole top of the block.   What mason does a "p" poor job of striking joints like that? Not any I know.   Sand for an "in-fill MIGHT be OK, IF there is good fill below, with a 6mil (or better) plastic under the sand.    Otherwise, all you'll have in that crawl space is a very large, wet sponge.   And that sponge will rot out ant joists above it, not to mention all the MOLD that will form in there.  As for it being a vent, that part is ok ( around here), but just to small for a crawl space entry point.   Unless the person going in the crawl space is VERY skinny.   That leaves me AND Mike out  of that problem.  Again, the first good wind storm that comes along,  and the building WILL slide off the foundation.   Contractor might be able to buy a new F350 crewcab, with the money he saved doing this job. 

 

Now, if you can, stop this right here.   Go back to just the block wall.    Fill in all the cavities with CONCRETE  ( not grout), add the correct anchor bolts ( both in size, and spacing), add have the contractor BUY (on HIS dime) the 2x8 pressure treated lumber to place a proper sill plate on the anchor bolts.   Add the 6mil plastic, and a layer of pea gravel on top of the plastic.   The plastic will keep ground water from rising into the crawl space.   The pea gravel ( about an inch or two) will keep the plastic in place.   Dig along the blocks, down to the footer. Add in some 1-1/2 rigid foam boards, around the outside walls.  That will keep the cold out.    The vents can be used, if needed.  Be sure they are the correct spacing and location.  They are there for air flow under the joists, to keep things dry.   A cold winter, you can always close the vents off with plastic sheeting.    Me?  I'd fire the bum...

Those blocks are 16" long, about the same spacing as most stud walls are using.     That is IF the sill plate is 2x stuff. For this wall, it looks like there will be a rim joist around the outside.  So MAYBE the joists won't be sitting over a vent.  Wouldn't count on it, though.  That vent in the corner needs to move to somewhere else ( anywhere) as there will be too much weight above that spot when the framing goes up. 

Richard McComas said:
I didn't think you could leave a block out on the top course where the mudsil makes contact.

Paul Whitmarsh said:
in our part of the country that is the way to vent a crawlspace to put a vent in place of a block.  i believe everyware you have wood in contact with concrete it is supposed to be treated.  im not sure about the 1x but i know that code requires at least a 2x4 even though it is best practive to use a 2x8.  i also have seen on modular housing where they use every bit of scrap they can find, even maybe a 2' piece in the middle of a long wall when they could have spanned it with one piece.

LOL, Me AND Mike out of it, lol, you got that right Steve!!

 

What did you think about no rebar between the corners?

Masons don't use rebar like I do.     They deal in vertical stuff,,   they stuff rebars vertically in the blocks as thy go.   They do make a block (but not used here) that rebar can be mortared in to a course.    That wire stuff they do use goes in every other course.    There would be some of the wire stuff ley in at the corner, connecting the two walls.    Me, I'd just pour a wall there, with all the rebar needed, and anchor bolts placed in the proper spots.  I could place vent block-outs in the forms, and pour around the vent areas. That is, IF the is a proper footer under them blocks....
I don't see any of that wire either.

Yep Building Codes are an unfortunate part of construction in these days and times, but I wish people would get more involved in their building projects and learn about the right way to do things. In my opinion, the building codes are just getting out of hand and are there to protect people too lazy to do things for themselves, or to investigate the right way to build things so they don't get taken by a unscrupulous contractor.

Fortunately my town does not enforce the few we do have so freedom still reigns here. The last time I built an outbuilding, I got a little worried because most of it was already up and I was afraid some one that hated me might call in the CEO. So I made a pre-emptive call and he said he would come out. I knew it was him when he tooted the horn, I went out to see him, grabbed the paperwork and was back inside in 3 minutes. He never even got out of the truck. We don't get too excited here over much.

 

It would be so hard to reply to this and keep it civil. So I will just ask to make sure who ever is doing this job, doesn't finish it. So many violations it just ridiculous.

Wayne Mahler
God bless and protect our troops that serve so we can be free.

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