This process I first saw on IAP and the credit for it goes to "FireWhatFire" who's blog showed me the way. I did do a few things different than his instruction showed. He laminated each small section where I built up a longer assembly and used a flush trim bit on my router table to true everything up and then cross cut the assembly into the smaller pieces which I felt saved time and allowed me to be as precise as I could be.
The first pic shows the materials I used. The 2 wider pieces of wood is paduk 1/4"thick X 1-1/2"wide X 6"long. the narrow piece is the rose wood wich is slightly larger than 1.4" squared and the aluminum is non galvanized flashing 1-1/4" wide.
with CA or epoxy attach the 1 wide piece of material to the small square stock. After it's cured the with a flush trim both sides of the square stock so its flush to the wide piece. Next attach the other wide stock to the square stock 90deg. to the first piece, ensuring that it is flush to the inside corner of the square stock. Try not to get any build up of glue on the inside corner otherwise it's a bear to get out. Once the second piece is cured repeat truing it up with the flush trim bit.
Next scuffed the wood and aluminum then I applied the aluminum to the outside edges of the assembly with epoxy glue and allowed to cure. Make sure one of the pieces overlaps the other to form a square corner otherwise you'l have a tiny hole at the corners. Any excess overhang can be removed with a mill file.
After the aluminum has cured I cross cut the assembly into 7/8" long sections with my cross cut sled and a sharp carbide tip blade.
Dry asseble the sections and make sure you have a tight fit otherwise you'll have a dark line at the joints.
Once your satisfied with the fit scuff the aluminium and apply the epoxy and clamp till cured ensuring top & bottom is flush. If your using 5 minute epoxy you can probably only get a few sections glued which is what I had and then you can glue the sub assemblies a few minutes later after the sub assemblies are cured. I also made a clamping jig from scrap wood. Just make sure the clamp blocks are thinner than the glued assembly which is helpfull in the next step.
After the assembly is cured trim the clamping block narrower than the width of the assembly. Draw a fine center line down the center of the assembly on both sides and then determine how wide you want the blank to be and mark that on the blank working out from the center line on both sides, these lines will be where you trim your blank. Then with the trimmed clamp blocks and clamp installed on the blank adjust your table saw rip fence to align to the outside width line and trim one side of your blank. Then flip the blank over and repeat this process again. If your off on trimming the blank the chevrons will not be centered.
Once your blank is trimmed wrap the blank with 2 layers of cheese cloth and saturate it with CA glue. This will help hold the segments together during drilling and during the initial rounding process on the lathe.
Drill the blank starting with a centering bit and then drill to desired dia staying just short of the end of the blank to prevent a blowout. after drilling trim the blank slightly larger than tube length by about 1/16", also pay attention to position of the blank to the tube so when trimmed the finished pen looks balanced. Glue in the tube with epoxy and turn when cured. Make sure to wax your bushings before mounting on the mandrel or cone centers so the CA glue wont glue your bushings in place. Take light cuts and take your time and you will be rewarded. During the turning process coat the blank with CA as fresh wood is exposed which will help keep everything together.
I had a catch twice but was able to locate the pieces and reattach them. When turning blanks with soft metal you can use HSS tools but they must be sharp and kept that way during the process otherwise you'll build up heat and can cause the bond of the segments to fail. I use a carbide tipped tool WoodChuck Pen Pro that eats through soft metal like butter. This is not a blank for those in a hurry. Don't plan on turning it in 30 minutes unless you enjoy frustration. Good luck and If I can help please let me know and I'll do what I can.
Comment
Comment by Barry Clarke on November 25, 2012 at 9:01am Nicely Done
Comment by James on September 24, 2012 at 11:36am Take the first step, it will lead you to the LAST.
www.bandsawblog.com

I think this is one of the neatest pens i've seen. I don't get much aluminum or have a lot of space to clamp things and have them hanging around to dry etc. but I sure would like to try this one day.
Charles Nicholls
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Mike, I love this pen, this is going to be one of the first things I do as soon as I learn to turn!! How do folks think this stuff up?
John Morris
The Patriot Woodworker
Proud Supporter of Wounded Warrior Project and Homes For Our Troops
Thanks Lewis. I thought about bending it but I don't know if I can bend it with a sharp enough radius for a tight fit without it cracking but I would think the thin material should make a tight bend. I am working on another blank and I will try it on that one.
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Super set of instructions, Mike!!
I was curious about whether the aluminum was bent of overlapped- thanks for clearing it up!!
Lew Kauffman-
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